1) Not strictly a 'moment', but living in a camper van, especially a small one with only the basics, was fantastic. So much fresh air. And yet so cosy at night with no rain liable to get in. It was brilliant.
2) Climbing Tongariro. So beautiful and so thrilling. The views were stunning but also unexpected and strange. The snacks were plentiful and very enjoyable given my cast iron excuse for eating so many of them, and the company was outstanding. I literally was, despite being thousands of miles from home, climbing a mountain with some of my closest friends. Perfect.
3) On that note, the time we spent with Roxi and Cal. All of it. It was such a treat to see Roxi again after so long and to find her somehow both unchanged and even better than I remembered. Getting to know Cal was so easy and so pleasurable, and it was wonderful to see their supportive relationship together. Inspiring. May M and I handle the sorrows in our lives together with such partnership and strength.
4) The ducks at Lignite Pit! I know it's ridiculous but, even on the other side of the world, feeding the ducks is a huge mood boost, and that whole place had such peace amid such violent weather, it was like a haven.
5) Tohoputiputi. The whole evening, on the beach, under the stars, just as we got used to travelling in our van, even the mosquitoes. It felt like a proper adventure. Perhaps more so than any other time to date on this trip.
6) Again not really a 'moment', but evenings with Helen and Michael. Once more, it was a privilege to have them with us from so far away, and the card games, wine and silliness were priceless. In particular that evening in which we walked home in the rain, and Michael wore his towel on his head.
7) The Maori experience. I struggle to find words to express how mind boggling and wonderful that was, from the very beginning welcome ritual, to the moment the man opened his mouth to sing and such powerful music came out, to the crazy karaoke drive home, to the fact that the whole thing was experienced through a slightly hazy mist of remaining headache, serving not to spoil, but somehow to physically enhance it.
8) The wekas. In particular. In fact Totoranui itself was amazing, watching the blood moon eclipse from the van, and walking on the cliff side. But the wekas take the real prize, with their little round brown bodies and comical facial expression, and their lack of fear, coming to visit me as I attempt to do some pilates and having a good old sniff around.
9) The jet boats. Both of them. The mixture of thrill and calm excursion into the natural beauty of the water. I enjoyed the crazy exhilaration of the first, and the small, personal, quiet nature of the second. They were so different but so perfect.
10) Battle Hill Farm. Sleeping surrounded by sheep was more special than you would - until you tried it yourself.
In fact it's hard to think of ten memorable moments in New Zealand. Not because there are not enough, but that there were just so many outstanding memories to take away. I haven't even begun to mention the thrill of learning to surf, and of seeing M take to it so easily, in turn causing Cal such pleasure, or of gazing up at bright white glaciers, horse trekking past steaming countryside, the countless volcanic landscapes, hissing geysers and boiling mud, randy kiwis and countless hot pools. Not to mention the Weta workshop, the amazing breakfasts, and above all - the baby seals!
I could do a bigger list than this, and as it is I have cheated.
New Zealand was a place full of natural wonders, and our method of travel, in our trusty little camper van, the smelly toilets and cold showers - these were all part of what made it. I could do a list of twenty. But I can't. Because I made a rule for myself. And as we all know those are the ones to stick to...
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