Put me on my death bed right now and I would spend most of my time snivelling and trying to get sympathy. In between, if you were silly enough to ask, I would probably recount my life in journeys. Student debt to solvency, single to happily married, starting points, turning points, aspirations. You know, the big stuff. I might not mention which particular diet fads worked or didn't work. I may not remember that mistake I made at work which was not significant but for which I spent nearly an entire week mentally crippling myself. I would definitely not care whether on Tuesday 24 August 2003, someone had remembered to put the bins out.

And yet on a daily basis approximately 90% of my energy is ploughed into just those issues and the bigger picture is....well, a bit over pixelated.

This is fine, I reason. And perfectly rational. What is important however is not to let stuff I won't remember prevent me from finding the time to create the memories I will cherish.

And so....operation no regrets. Beginning with a travelling adventure. Eleven months, eleven counties, two backpacks, myself, my husband and the odd mosquito along for the ride.

Sunday, 28 December 2014

Saving the Animals - And the Virtues of Coming in Last

Actually I don’t come in last. I am somewhere in the middle. M, of course, is somewhere near the front. I am referring, obviously, to the Run for The Animals. The Lanta Animal Welfare Centre is organising its first ever annual Run For The Animals today, and we have been lucky enough to have timed our stay, unknowingly, so that we can take part in it.

I didn’t talk much about the Welfare Centre itself on the day we cycled there, being rather self absorbedly preoccupied with my ability or otherwise in respect of a Mountain Bike.  As I had explained earlier, it was set up by the lady who runs the Time for Lime Restaurant, and is funded solely by the profits of that restaurant and by donations. Vastly oversubscribed, it tries valiantly to keep up with the increasing population of stray cats and dogs, largely because they are unsterilized and so reproducing more rapidly that they can sustain themselves, partly because of the kind of shirking of responsibility I encountered, (or suspect I encountered) in the case of Favourite Cat and a tiny bit because there is active animal cruelty. When I contacted them to ask if they could take Favourite Cat and her kittens, someone named Ben (psuedonym of course) sent me an email to tell me they simply couldn’t take them in. Though the email was short and concise, I could feel his regret through the lines.

When we arrive, to prepare for the run, which raises money through people paying to take part rather than through sponsorship, acknowledging that many of the interested runners will be foreign and only on the island for a few days or a few months at most, a young man who I immediately suspect to be Ben, is crouching down in the lobby of the centre, over what looks at first glance to be a pile of chicken bones.

It is only when I leave the congregating runners, all in various states of fitness and employing various levels of professional looking outfits (from lycra tank top and hot pants and muscles to match, to me, with my cobbled together running gear, borrowed shoes, and the kind of flab which emerges, tellingly as an unwelcome bulge when you aren’t paying attention to holding your tummy in), to go to the toilet inside the building, that I realise that next to the pile of chicken bones is a cat. Ben (I discover later that my assumption is correct) is gently holding the cat down and carefully emptying the contents of a syringe into him.  In as long as it takes for me to realise there is an emergency treatment taking place, mutter a hurried, “Oh! Sorry..” and back out again, the cat has relaxed into a chemically induced sleep, been lovingly picked up and carried to a suitable recovery unit and Ben is saying, in a voice of authority which belies the incredible gentleness I have seen in him with the cat,

“OK, this needs to be thrown away securely and we need to sterilise the area.”

I have seen the Animal Welfare Centre in action.

Returning to the groups of milling runners, alternately chatting and playing with the numerous cats who roam around looking for love, or for a bit of peace and quiet (this, they do not get, surrounded by well meaning animal lovers), I know from my previous visits that the cat will be placed in a recovery cage, alongside other animals who are recovering from treatment, before being returned to the ‘Happy Cat Home’, a large room with a number of round baskets into which some 70 cats will return to sleep each night, safe from predators and prowling stray dogs. Out the back, there are a number of large outdoor ‘pens’ in which carefully selected ‘packs’ of stray dogs play together. The selection of the packs rather resembles a match making agency,

“This one is on his own at the moment,” explains a volunteer who is working at the centre, “because he is an Alpha Dog. He is such an Alpha Dog that we can only match him with very relaxed, submissive strays. We have a few just come in for treatment which we think might get on with him.”

It’s a nice set up. It tries, as far as possible, to reflect the ideal, in which cats and dogs could indeed be free, could live as strays but without the accompanying dangers, threats and hardships that go with the overpopulation and general human intervention. Well meaning or otherwise. The Centre sends animals for adoption all over the world, but the appetite for adoption never matches the speed at which the animals are brought in. The Centre employs all sorts of imaginative schemes to make things easier, recognising again, that given that Thai culture doesn’t necessarily match with care of dogs and cats in a domestic setting, many of the people who will be willing to adopt a dog or cat, will be from overseas. It uses ‘flight volunteers’ who will escort the animals to their new home, has the facilities and government backing to quarantine the animals for their required period of 3 months at the centre, rather than paying for this at the airport, and, as we later discovered when we got chatting to a lady who lives down the road from us in Lanta Old Town, and works at the Centre, in situations such as ours, we could have adopted Favourite Cat and the centre would have arranged for her to be ‘fostered’ until such time as we were at home and ready to receive her. As it happens, Favourite Cat is much better off where she is and very well loved, so I am secure in our decision.

We all hang around amiably and there is an atmosphere of anticipation. It’s a fun run, and it doesn’t actually matter whether we all complete it or not, it not being sponsored. We’ve all paid our 300 baht to enter and it is that which will raise the money. Even so, somehow it still feels as though it is our finishing the race that will, singlehandedly, save the animals. The sun, which is beating down on us now, as we prepare for our 5 pm start time, is going to make the run no easier, nor the stretch on the beach and the rather hilly nature of the island’s geography. It’s only 5k but it’s still a challenge.

I spend a slightly shameful period of time surveying the participants and trying to guess where in the race, they will finish. This person has all the most up to date gear but it looks a little new for her to be an experienced runner. This lady looks like a body builder, and will probably come near the front (she doesn’t actually, she is surprisingly slow). These girls looks pale and delicate, their white midriffs showing, and their near identical faces look unweathered and unlikely. I think they must be sisters. I predict they will be near the middle. They come first. This man is overweight and sweating already. He might not manage to run all the way. He beats me. This man is muscled and tatooed and tanned. He’ll be trying to impress so he’ll probably come first. I don’t know in the end. I don’t see him again. Perhaps he bottles out at the last minute, or ducks into the nearest Irish pub. This man is slight but lean and lithe looking, he’ll probably be fast. He is. He is M and he does very well. He’s the only one I get right and, with him, I do have an unfair advantage.

I am not alone in my inability to tell from watching people, how well they will do.

“You should drink lots of water  and..oh no. I can see you’re not new to running,” says the lady who registers me before we begin, “The fast runners should start near the front, OK?”

I enjoy my apparent ability to appear sporty, but, as I say, I am somewhere near the back of the middle. I don’t even try to place myself near the front.

Ben does the quick health and safety chat before we go. He is wryly cheerful and will be riding in the van at the back to pick up anyone who is having difficulties.

“What a rubbish excuse,” shouts someone and there is a chorus of good natured bullying, which Ben, who looks pretty fit and able to my eyes, shrugs off good naturedly. I have a slight urge to be teacher’s pet at this point. It’s a problem I have I think, with authority. I always want to be the favourite. Whatever it is, I want to get an A grade in it. Also I have emailed Ben to tell him that we managed to get Favourite Cat adopted and his response is so warm and grateful it makes me want to make myself known to him. So, presumably, I can bask in my persona as ‘Saviour of Animals’.

And we are off. I begin, as usual, over confident, but soon drop back and lose my breathing pattern. M, I can tell, is holding back, and I can see him in front, watching the tension in his back as he tries to decide whether it is OK to leave me and to power on.

“Go on!” I tell him silently, trying to send the message telepathically, “do your best time – I’ll see you at the end.”

Somehow the telepathy works and I watch him put a spurt on, and pass all the other runners who, like me, overestimated their ability and are no good at pacing themselves.

I allow a few people to pass me, including several I had previously marked as being unfit. Which, quite frankly, serves me right. Never, I think, panting my way past the muscled body builder I had picked out to come in first, earlier, judge a book by its cover.

About half way through there is a station at which volunteers are handing out water bottles, relay style, to runners as they pass. Seeing this hone into view is a mixed blessing. It means I get water. It also means we are only half way through.

I am wet through with sweat. Even my underwear is drenched and I can feel the hot blood in my face, knowing that my usual running visage, beetroot red and shiny, has taken effect.

“Hooray!” shouts someone as I pass them, clicking their camera, “smile!”

I am feeling rather euphoric, but I can’t spare the energy to smile. I manage something between a smile, a grimace and a dribble. Does everyone get an excess of saliva in their mouth when they run or is it just me?

I have run 5k before, but in this heat have been known to come over all delicate just walking. I try to drink some water, but don’t dare stop in case I don’t manage to start again, so end up just sloshing it over my face, leaving me spluttering, through mercifully cooler. I pour the rest of the bottle over my head. It’s an added weight anyway. I’m not sure what happens to the bottle. I definitely don’t throw it on the ground so I must, at some stage, have found a bin or a recycling point. Either way I don’t have it as I approach the point at which, to my relief, I see people beginning to turn off the road and onto the beach.

The route is straight along the road once we join the main road from the welfare centre. Towards the end we take a side street down onto the beach and double back on ourselves along the sand to end up at Time for Lime.

Running on the road has actually been really nice. Thai people are stopping on their motorcycles, some staring open mouthed and in frank disbelief at our idiocy.

“Thai people,” says Boris, “do not exercise.”

M and I have encountered enough sheer amazement when we walk. Running is quite another matter. But everyone we pass is smiling through their wonder, several wave at us and a good number of onlookers, both Thai and tourist, cheer as we pass.

“Keep it up! Well done!” says someone, perhaps to us in general, but I like to think just to me as I struggle past on the steaming road surface. I remember how much it matters, how much of a difference it can make to hear that, and I watch myself put a spurt on and hold my head up higher.

The turn off onto the beach means it’s all nearly over and I run down it almost at a sprint, though I slow at the beach. The sand is hot and hard to run on, even in running shoes. There is no shade from the burning sun and the sea, which I look at to try to distract myself, is beautiful but lethal, sending blinding reflections into my eyes as I pass. My eyes stream, though they are doing that anyway from the sweat in them. I wonder why anybody actually runs in this climate and then remember that nobody does. Though, as if to give the lie to that, I have totally lost sight of M.

I think of the animals. Somehow, in my mind as I blearily but determinedly advance towards the finish line, I am, single handedly saving every animal on Koh Lanta. The fact that whether I stop running or walk doesn’t matter, because it’s the money I paid to enter that will save them, the fact that even this is just a drop in the ocean for the Animal Welfare Centre, do not register with me. I am saving the animals. Look, I have nearly finished and I didn’t stop running. Phew. Thank goodness. Now the animals are safe.

I reach the row of flags which marks the finish line. And I realise that coming in near the end as I am doing, is actually fantastic. There is a crowd of enthusiastic cheerers welcoming me in at the finish line, and as they, having finished their own runs much earlier, clap and whoop as I make it through, I get a rush of emotion mixed with relief and something between tears and shouting floods through me, so that I make a sort of panting yelp of triumph, and run into the waiting arms of M.

Never mind that he came in quite close to the front, he encircles me in his arms, hands me water and congratulates me as if I am an Olympic champion. And really, that’s what I feel like, a champion.

Later, over the celebration beer and raffle tickets and cut price food that marks the end of the run for the participants at Time for Lime, M tells me that the earlier one came in the race, the less people there were to cheer for you, and that the delicate looking twins I had noticed earlier, had outpaced everyone else by far. There are raffle prizes and awards for the front runners, and a general sense of enormous bonhomie. I bump into Ben who is bemusedly trying to cut spring rolls into sections,

“I can suture a cat,” he says, “but I can’t cut a spring roll so it looks edible.”

I tell him that suturing a cat is much more important, and introduce myself, still, I think, a little in the ‘I have single handedly saved the animals’ mindset. We have a nice chat about animals and the centre, and he helps me carry the food back to M, who is relaxing his ridiculously nonchalant body, in a deck chair in front of the sea.

I absolutely stink of sweat and my rather thwarted attempt to do what the Thais are always telling you not to do, and use the shower head in the toilet to wash myself off (it is supposed to be used like a B’day), has not really made much in the way of inroads against it.

Never mind though. Today I saved the animals. Favourite Cat would be proud of me.

Postscript: This was not a sponsored event, but if you wanted to donate to the Animal Welfare Centre, you can do so via paypal on its website here: http://www.lantaanimalwelfare.com

No pressure. But it would probably be a heck of a lot easier than running 5K in the 40 degree heat. I’ll even cheer for you, if you like.

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