Put me on my death bed right now and I would spend most of my time snivelling and trying to get sympathy. In between, if you were silly enough to ask, I would probably recount my life in journeys. Student debt to solvency, single to happily married, starting points, turning points, aspirations. You know, the big stuff. I might not mention which particular diet fads worked or didn't work. I may not remember that mistake I made at work which was not significant but for which I spent nearly an entire week mentally crippling myself. I would definitely not care whether on Tuesday 24 August 2003, someone had remembered to put the bins out.

And yet on a daily basis approximately 90% of my energy is ploughed into just those issues and the bigger picture is....well, a bit over pixelated.

This is fine, I reason. And perfectly rational. What is important however is not to let stuff I won't remember prevent me from finding the time to create the memories I will cherish.

And so....operation no regrets. Beginning with a travelling adventure. Eleven months, eleven counties, two backpacks, myself, my husband and the odd mosquito along for the ride.

Saturday, 20 December 2014

The Great Travelling Meltdown: Part Two - Kayaking

Funny, as I look back on this, writing it with the older and wiser mind of a few weeks later, how each episode of this mini voyage of rather painful self discovery, aligns itself with some form of activity. In fact I think this is what is happening. Everybody has a demon. Mine is a tendency to feel inadequate. I felt this as a child, I felt it as a young adult, I felt it at work, at home, at school, and I even felt it on the day M proposed to me. I accepted with tearful joy and unequivocal certainty. But I spent that night awake, next to him, unable to believe my luck but also to banish an uneasy thought that he was making some terrible mistake, and should marry someone better. It’s not something I have ever felt every day, it’s just something I always feel in my unguarded moments. Traveling strips your guard away.  Activities like cycling and kayaking, whilst amazing, tend to create posts from which to hang yourself if you are already going down that sort of pathway.

The kayak is a beautiful yellow and orange, echoing the sunrise we see this morning as we wake up, breakfast and get ready to set off. The sea is a brilliant blue green and reflects the sunlight. We plan to kayak to a relatively close by island, pull up on the beach for a while, and then have a stroll around the island community, which is isolated and, as yet, untouched by the tourism which is sweeping, with all its gains and ills, across Southern Thailand.

We set off. It’s nice. Kayaking, I discover, is one of the few things which I don’t seem to be afraid of. I am pleased, and cocky, about this. But I am enjoying myself.  M is too. Not only is kayaking fun and beautiful it’s quiet and calming, and we seem to be good at it. I am not plagued by some sort of clumsy reticence which makes me feel less able than M, or than others generally. In fact I seem to be fine at kayaking. I can do it.

We kayak to the beach which is beautiful, where we stroll for a while and pick up shells.  Then M suggests that, as the kayak journey had felt over all too soon, we should kayak all the way round the island. I agree. We set off again.

It’s going fine, I navigate us, rather obsessively, around rocky outcrops, being far more concerned about damaging the property of someone else than I ever would my own. It’s fine until we get all the way around the other side of the, actually, quite large, island. This side of the island, it’s open sea. The  waves are bigger and more blustery, the nearest land, other than the island we are skirting, is very far away and there is a strong current which pulls us, continually, away from the island we are skirting, and closer to the nothingness that is open sea. Worse, in the distance, we can see a storm brewing.

Or that is how it feels. Most of it is true, but thinking back on it, and cross referencing my impression with M’s, the nearest land was another island which was further away than we would sensibly kayak, but was in sight. We were not in open sea, with no land in evidence, encircled by sharks and man eating pirhanas. Even so. I am fearful. And it seems to me that no one else would be scared. That this reaction is only me. Anyone else in the same situation would be ably kayaking their way round the island, pulling capably and strongly at the oars, and whooping in delight at the added adrenaline. I feel, once again, inadequate. M is having to work harder to resist the current, but he doesn’t seem worried.

“I think,” I say with an edge to my voice which is becoming all too familiar to both of us, “that we should sometimes just do the thing everyone else does. Most people just kayak to the island and back. They don’t go all the way round it for extra kicks. Most people just go for a short cycle ride. They don’t do 30k on mountainous terrain.”

There is possibly some truth in this. We do tend to do things rather by extremes. We walk miles, we bike, kayak, climb further. M likes to challenge himself. I am just somebody who quite likes to do things with enormous enthusiasm. “If a job’s worth doing,” my Mum always said, “it’s worth doing well.”

In this moment however, this all seems like a calculated thing aimed at burying my already struggling self esteem even further under the increasing arsenal of weapons I am collecting against myself. Every time we do something, we try to do something big, and so I am more likely to be afraid and fail. If we had simply kayaked to the island and back again, I reason, it would have been fine, and the day would have been one I could use  as a  shield to defend myself against the onslaught of ‘Reasons I am Not Good Enough’. Now we have decided to do extra kayaking, I have put myself in a position in which I become afraid. This is making me more afraid.

Oddly enough, I will eventually come to rather the opposite conclusion. And, predictably, we will make it round the island and home before the storm and in time for a, on my part, rather subdued, tea.


But right now, I am sat, sweating in a kayak in the middle of an ocean, and it is not nearly as dark and dangerous as the one I am flailing around in internally.

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