Put me on my death bed right now and I would spend most of my time snivelling and trying to get sympathy. In between, if you were silly enough to ask, I would probably recount my life in journeys. Student debt to solvency, single to happily married, starting points, turning points, aspirations. You know, the big stuff. I might not mention which particular diet fads worked or didn't work. I may not remember that mistake I made at work which was not significant but for which I spent nearly an entire week mentally crippling myself. I would definitely not care whether on Tuesday 24 August 2003, someone had remembered to put the bins out.

And yet on a daily basis approximately 90% of my energy is ploughed into just those issues and the bigger picture is....well, a bit over pixelated.

This is fine, I reason. And perfectly rational. What is important however is not to let stuff I won't remember prevent me from finding the time to create the memories I will cherish.

And so....operation no regrets. Beginning with a travelling adventure. Eleven months, eleven counties, two backpacks, myself, my husband and the odd mosquito along for the ride.

Friday, 26 December 2014

The Christmas Cat: Part Three - Boxing Day

Reality, is only just around the corner, and you have to face it sometime. In the case of the cats, I know, and wake up knowing, that the sooner we face it, the better for them. I am awoken by a meow, and, peeping out through the mosquito net, I see a small, pink nosed, grey and white face, looking up at me. She is asking permission. I turn to M, he is half asleep still, warm and smiling at me, eyes closed.

“Hello cat,” he says sleepily.

I reach down and hold open the mosquito net for Favourite Cat. She jumps up with some difficulty, back legs still weak from carrying four kittens. Both before she gave birth to them, and, presumably, after, when she somehow transported them all into our house when we weren’t looking. She lies down between us, paws outstretched, the way she lies with her kittens. I regard her, sleepy myself, and so pleased to have her. And yet with so many conflicting emotions.

Favourite Cat is perfectly housetrained. She meows when she is hungry and follows us into the kitchen. She is deeply trusting, even with her kittens. She lies down with us on the bed and she has not, even once, made a mess in the house. Either she goes out to do it, or she actually uses our toilet. I can’t tell. If she uses the toilet then she is flushing it too. As flushing a Thai toilet involves filling a bucket of water and pouring it repeatedly into the toilet bowl until its contents are clean again, this seems unlikely. Such a house trained, healthy, well cared for cat, wearing a collar. Something, I can’t help thinking, doesn’t add up.

Later, my suspicions are confirmed. I have been feeling, though it has only been two days, a little guilty that we have been feeding a whole family of stray cats in S’s house. And that we haven’t actually got round to telling her. The fact is, if it wasn’t a family of kittens, I might have gently put her outside, or allowed her in to visit. But I wouldn’t have fed her. I am aware that this isn’t my house and that I cannot keep on feeding her. But the kittens are very young and she is feeding them. It feels like a very different situation.

Even so, as M is preparing breakfast, I nip out. Sure enough, I bump into S.

“There’s something I wanted to just mention,” I say carefully, formalities and ‘happy Christmass’es over with, “we um..well a cat came in and had kittens in our cupboard!”

Careful as I am being, I have been unable to keep the excitement out of my voice. But S is not sharing it.

“Oh no!” she says, sympathetically, “put them out. Put them out and close the door. That’s the best way to get rid of them.”

I am catching my breath a little, but I know in my heart that this would be S’s reaction. She’s not a monster, but she has been living in Thailand for 14 years now. She has the Thai attitude to animals and, even more to the point, it’s her guest house.

“Well obviously they can’t stay,” I say hurriedly, “because we won’t be there. But I am hoping to get them sorted out humanely.”

I can’t help but linger a little on the word ‘humane’.

“The kittens are too small to be moved really,” I keep talking “and so we will make sure that by the time we leave I will get them adopted. Take them to the Animal Welfare Centre or something. Or maybe B will take them on.”

I see S’s face.

“We’ll make sure they are gone by the time we leave,” I say again.

“Well I’d like them out before then, ideally,” says S.

I am terrified that S will force us to simply dump the cat family back out on the street.

“Leave it with me.” I say, “Give us a couple of days. We’ll do it humanely.” That word again - I can’t help it.

“They probably belong to next door,” says S after I explain about the collar, though by this time something in me simply wants to turn and run, and shut the door behind us. “She probably put her out when she got pregnant. That’s the Thai way. It’s a Buddhism thing. They believe animals should be free.”

“Well anyway,” I say, “see you later. I’ll sort it out of course.” I flash her what I hope is a reassuring smile and then I actually do pretty much turn tail and run. For the first time since I first learned about the door code in Thailand, I deliberately shut the door behind me. And lock it.

When I return to join M, he shares my feelings that the cats should not simply be put out on the street, but he isn’t surprised. “You always have to be so honest, don’t you,” he says, kissing my forehead gently, “you didn’t need to tell her until we’d sorted it out. I didn’t know that was what you were going to do or I’d have stopped you. Of course she would react like that. It’s her house and she’s been living for 14 years in Thailand.”

Thai’s are not cruel, though they have a bad reputation in respect of animals. But they are rather shruggy about stray cats and dogs, not particularly moved by them and believing, especially the Buddhists, in nature ‘taking its course’ without humans interfering. I do have some understanding, and indeed some sympathy, for that point of view, but I am angry with the neighbours, if S’s assumption is true.

“It’s NOT natural,” I say crossly, “for humans to take animals in and put collars on them, domesticate them so they don’t have enough instinct to survive in the wild, but not take the trouble to sterilise them either. They do it FOR FREE in the Animal Welfare Centre, to deal with the over population, which is causing starvation and suffering for the animals.”

“I know. I know.” says M, sadly.

“I mean,” I am gaining momentum in what is the first and so far only time I have felt that I cannot respect an aspect of another culture. Hitherto I have been careful always to notice the good, to accept what seems odd. But on this I am adamant, “if you are going to domesticate an animal, then go the whole way. Either sterilise them if you don’t want the kittens, or if you can’t be bothered to even do that, FOR FREE, then accept your responsibility for your domesticated cat and look after or at least find another home for the kittens. It’s not OK. It’s not natural to take a cat in then dump it out on the street when it’s at its most vulnerable.” 

M dishes up breakfast.

“Either the cat is free,” I say, pulling drawers open and locating chopsticks and soy sauce, “or the cat is not free. If you only take half the responsibility,” I pour water into glasses, “then the only thing that you are keeping free is YOU.”

We write two emails, together. One to B, to say that we are going to ask the animal welfare centre if they can take the cat family, but that, as she had said she might want to adopt them herself, we wanted to give her first choice, without making her feel obliged. The second, to the animal welfare centre, explaining the situation, and asking if they could take the cats, assuming our friend cannot adopt them. It’s worrying on both counts. The animal welfare centre is vastly oversubscribed. And B and Boris already have two cats. Another five would mean seven. Seven is quite a lot of cats.

Then, with nothing more we can do, we embark on our traditional boxing day walk. We have planned to go to the National Park, do the hike around it, and then spend some time on the secluded beach there. I look in on the cats again before we go. Favourite Cat is stretched out and the look on her sleeping face, with her kittens, asleep at her teats is blissful. It reminds me, poignantly, of a moment at my Grandfather’s funeral, watching my two year old niece. She had no idea of the gravity of the situation, but had been running round and round the church building while all the adults had moved into the side building for the wake, to her hearts content, giggling and shrieking. Now she had joined us for the wake, and was, obediently, no longer running about, but as I glanced up at her, I saw her rise up for a moment onto her tiptoes, with a joyful little laugh to herself, looking so innocently and perfectly happy, that this, more than anything else in what was a very moving funeral, brought a tear to my eye. Favourite Cat does not know she is, what I am rather dramatically terming to myself, in danger.

The walk around the National Park is beautiful. In honour of my new found ‘write your own story’ attitude, I climb to the top of the lighthouse, using some four separate rickety ladders, and the hike around the park itself involves a bit of scrambling, and a bit of careful, and wobbly balancing over a bridge. I feel brave and happy and the beach really is natural and beautiful. We swim in the sea and we eat an ice cream, pursued by some rather threatening monkeys. They surround us, snarling and make several runs to jump up to snatch the ice creams out of our hands. In the end M makes a big gesture, raises his arms to make himself look bigger, and roars at the monkeys. They retreat. We have out monkeyed the monkeys.

Even so, we wade out to sea to eat our ice creams in peace.

When we come back I check my phone immediately. The animal welfare centre have sent an apologetic email, probably a very difficult one for them to send, explaining that they simply cannot take in any more animals though they could offer free medical treatment if needed, so the animals were not ill or suffering. The angst caused by this is short lived, luckily. Amid a flurry of skype conversations with close friends for Christmas, B and Boris drop round to see the kittens – and to make arrangements to adopt them.

“We were always going to take them,” says B, soothingly, when I release a burst of heartfelt gratitude and relief.

I look sideways at Boris. He is as soft hearted as B, but more practical. It was he I had wanted to be certain they could afford the money and space needed to look after another five cats. He is staring at the kittens,

“I think,” he says thoughtfully, “that the orange and grey one might be my favourite.”

I smile. The cats will be fine. The cats that came for Christmas will be given a happy and loving home. Not just for Christmas. For life.  Just like in the poster.


“..or maybe the stripey one,” says Boris, “can I have two favourites?”

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