Put me on my death bed right now and I would spend most of my time snivelling and trying to get sympathy. In between, if you were silly enough to ask, I would probably recount my life in journeys. Student debt to solvency, single to happily married, starting points, turning points, aspirations. You know, the big stuff. I might not mention which particular diet fads worked or didn't work. I may not remember that mistake I made at work which was not significant but for which I spent nearly an entire week mentally crippling myself. I would definitely not care whether on Tuesday 24 August 2003, someone had remembered to put the bins out.

And yet on a daily basis approximately 90% of my energy is ploughed into just those issues and the bigger picture is....well, a bit over pixelated.

This is fine, I reason. And perfectly rational. What is important however is not to let stuff I won't remember prevent me from finding the time to create the memories I will cherish.

And so....operation no regrets. Beginning with a travelling adventure. Eleven months, eleven counties, two backpacks, myself, my husband and the odd mosquito along for the ride.

Wednesday, 24 December 2014

The Christmas Cat: Part One - Christmas Eve

So far, everywhere we have stayed there has been a cat. Given our obsession with cats, this is fantastic. For long years we have longed for a cat to share our living space and our lives with us, but have been ‘just about to travel’ for at least the last 4 years, and so have been unwilling to invite a cat in, only to abandon it. Or drag it around the world with us. Which would be uncomfortable for both cat and us, as our hands would fall off trying to keep up with the paperwork, and the poor cat would spend much of its time in airport quarantine. The plan is to rescue a cat once we get back, assuming we can find a flat which allows animals.

In the meantime, as I have mentioned before, we are glass of wine, film, good company and craft beer people. We are not clubbers. (Though M can pull some impressive moves in the right setting, and I have been known to hit the dance floor in the right company. Both assuming the music is good. We disapprove of new fangled bands who are a quarter of our combined ages. Did I mention we are becoming rather comfortably middle aged?) So, whilst neither of us have grown up with a cat or lived with one, a curled up cat on the sofa, or a playful cat knocking over ornaments, for us exemplifies home. Having a cat in each place has helped us to achieve what was our original goal – to feel, rather than as though we have visited eleven countries, as though we have lived in them. This is the reasoning behind cooking for ourselves, shopping at local markets, staying long enough to make local friends and choosing one place to stay in for a whole month.

“You must be mad,” said some people.

“I want to be you” said others.

Whichever way, it has worked for us. We have regretted none of our choices so far. We have another eight months to go, so we’ll see, but I have an inkling this feeling will continue throughout.

Back to the cats. In Vietnam we had Chiba, a small tortoise shell cat, not much older than a kitten, full of life and play, but perfectly willing to curl up on our bed with us at night. She was a rescued stray, brought home on our host’s motorbike. And for one month, she was as much our cat as Vietnam was our home.

In Cambodia, A, our next door neighbour and now good friend, was kind enough to allow us to share her little black and orange cat, Vanilla. Vanilla was equally playful and whimsical and also not much more than a kitten. She played with us in the garden, visited us in our bungalow, and generally exemplified home.

It was getting to be an expectation. But thus far, Thailand had not provided such a local feline friend. At least not in our house. Beautiful as our pole house is, out over the sea, with devastating views that can take your breath away each day, or each time you look out at them, it is a house intended for short stay guests. It does not contain a cat. And our attempts to befriend some stray baby mice, met with reasonable disapproval from our host.

So we have made the best of it. We, I in particular, have stopped to stroke every stray cat we come across, and have played with B’s two kitten/cats, both about the same age as Chiba and Vanilla.

There is one cat in particular who we have fallen a little in love with. She wears a collar, which makes us assume she is not a stray, and she is beautiful. She is grey and white, with little white feet, and a friendly, gentle face with a pink nose. She looks too healthy to be a stray and, as she is often around our front door, we have been assuming she belongs to one of the local Thai families next door. I have been stopping to make a fuss of her each time I enter or leave the house and now she meows in greeting and trots over to me to receive the love each time I round the corner. I say trots.  ‘Favourite cat’ as we have named her, is quite pregnant. It’s not so much a trot as a waddle. Her back legs stagger slightly under her bulging tummy, and her teats, when she rolls over for a gentle stroke on her strained tummy, are swollen and ready to care for her family.

“Hello Favourite Cat”, I say to her gently each time, “how are those babies? OK? How are you doing?”

I ask her daily. She never replies.

Today, however, she came in to see me. I was sat in the room nearest the road, which is unusual. Generally we leave our door open, as is the Thai tradition, but spend most of our time, when we are in, either in the kitchen or out on the deck, transfixed by the view. We have been visited by a crab, by a tourist looking for S, and by S and B in passing. It’s nice. Once we even had a visit from a big, gentle stray dog, who padded all the way out to the deck to see us, sat down with us, and then accompanied us when we went out to the shops.

One of the reasons it took us a while to get comfortable with living with the doors open, was because you can’t, out towards the kitchen and the deck, at the back of the house, really see what human or animal might be wandering in until they make their way out to find you. If they chose to wander around without going as far as the kitchen, we don’t really know that they’ve been there.

So when Favourite Cat came in through the door, I was aware it might not be the first time she’d visited. I was very excited of course, and leaped off the sofa where I was supposed to be catching up on my blogging, so far behind already, greeting her and bending down to stroke her. I don’t ask her how her babies are today, partly because a couple of days ago we noticed that she didn’t seem quite so pregnant any more.

“Perhaps she’s had her babies”, I said to M.

“Maybe,” he said, “perhaps they’re tucked away inside.”

“Probably,” I say, “which might be why we haven’t seen her for a couple of days.”

To say we think no more of it would be a lie, as I am excited to see the kittens, once they are old enough for her to allow them out to see us, but it doesn’t go any further than that. I don’t have the Thai to ask the neighbours and the ones we think might own her, keep themselves very much to themselves so I don’t like to intrude and quiz them about their cat. Their door is usually firmly closed. In Thai culture that means, “leave me alone”, so we do.

Today Favourite Cat really doesn’t seem interested in a stroke. She moves past me with nothing more than a cursory brush around my ankles, as if to say, “don’t be offended but I really have work to do.”

She sniffs each corner and then, casually, walks through the lounge and into the hallway. I follow her. Without a moment’s hesitation, she slinks underneath the stairs and rounds the corner into the cupboard where we once searched for a mouse nest. It’s a dark cupboard with rat poison and chemical cleaners and I am concerned that she will get shut in if we go out without realising she’s there.

“Hey, now”, I say gently, sliding the cupboard door open a crack. It’s dark in there but I can just see her. She’s crouched in the corner, where there is a tiny space amid the wood varnish and bleach and tools. She’s looking at me, very alert.

“You can’t stay in there,” I say, “I mean I don’t mind you being here but I don’t want you to eat the mouse poison or get shut in.”

I reach in slowly, let her sniff my hand and then prepare to gently lift her out, when there is a movement beneath her. I freeze and stare. Now that my eyes adjust to the darkness I see that she is crouching over a number of furry, wriggling forms. I draw my hand away.


“M!” I breathe “M, come quickly. I think Favourite Cat has had her kittens!”

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